So today was my first surfing day. It was a lot harder than I thought. I surfed a little years ago and can snowboard and skateboard so thought I’d pick it up quite quickly. The waves were fairly big so the hardest part was getting out beyond the break. Very tiring indeed! I caught a wave but could only get up onto my knees. Slowly but surely.
On the way back from Bondi Junction, me and Phil get on the bus. “Hello mate” says Phil. Daragh was on the bus too and I didn’t recognise him even though he was wearing an ultra violet construction worker t-shirt which made us laugh.
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